SPF 50+
Innovation:
HOW IT STARTED
SPF 50+ in natural cosmetics – and in powder form, no less? Marina, Head of Product Development at UND GRETEL, along with co-founder and professional makeup artist Christina Roth, explains how it all began with the extraordinary SPF 50+ Compact Powder WOLKEN.
As a compact powder with SPF 50+, WOLKEN is a true pioneer in natural cosmetics. What was the origin of this idea?
CHRISTINA: Not every product development follows the same process. Some processes begin with a precise brief and a clear vision. This time it was different.
MARINA: This time the starting point was a feeling of gap.
CHRISTINA: The range already included ILGE , a transparent setting powder—light, airy, and barely pigmented. What was missing, however, was a full-coverage powder.
MARINA: The idea for WOLKEN came from you, so to speak, as part of UND GRETEL—not from the lab, but from outside—from our community . The question kept coming up: Couldn't you develop a natural sunscreen that's easy to use in everyday life—even over makeup?
Many people wanted a mineral SPF that mattifies instead of shines, and that can be touched up on the go—without a white cast. And it immediately became clear to us: An SPF 50+ in pressed powder form, certified according to natural cosmetics standards—that didn't exist. It was precisely this gap that appealed to us.
The challenge was enormous: a pure mineral UV filter system, no synthetic additives, a pleasant, almost weightless skin feeling – and all of this in a compact form. This idea gave rise to WOLKEN: a feather-light protective shield that lies on the skin like a fine veil – silent and reliable, like a cloud between the sun and the earth.
And above all, we wanted to create something that not only protects but also feels right. Not just functionally, but emotionally. A daily companion that demands no compromise.
What makes the combination of high sun protection factor, natural formula and pleasant skin feeling so complex?
MARINA: This exact combination is practically the pinnacle of natural cosmetics. An SPF 50+ with exclusively mineral filters—zinc oxide and titanium dioxide—requires very high pigment concentrations. And these are precisely what make many textures pasty, heavy, and visible. Conventional cosmetics can conceal the effect with silicones—but for us, that's not an option.
We wanted a texture that breathes. One that's light, soft, and finely ground. One that almost dissolves on the skin—but stays put. Stable, protective, and not heavy.
We deliberately work without water and avoid synthetic preservatives – which makes the formulation and shelf life all the more challenging. Ultimately, the goal was to develop a sunscreen that looks like a powder – and functions like a shield.
Were there moments when you thought: We can't do this?
MARINA: Oh yes—some. (laughs)
CHRISTINA: We tested many samples over time, but never found the right one. The color adjustment was delicate. The initial press was too light—too much fallout. And who hasn't experienced it? Sunscreen, then foundation, then powder—a layering that often looks heavy and visible. It was a real balancing act!
Our task was to determine: Does it work for UND GRETEL? Does it fit into our portfolio? Does it reflect our philosophy?
MARINA: That was a point where we briefly doubted whether the standards were too high. But that was precisely our promise – uncompromising natural cosmetics, COSMOS-certified, no synthetic additives. Then it became clear: We're going to solve this problem differently: with precision – in the application, in the brush, in the packaging. And with trust.
– MARINA
Head of Product Development at UND GRETEL
When did you know: Now it works?
MARINA: When we held the final sample in our hands and dipped the brush in, the texture lay on the skin like a gentle touch. Mattifying, even, protective—without a visible film, without a heaviness.
CHRISTINA: We tested it intensively: feel, adhesion, and compatibility with our other products. And we quickly realized: Yes. This is a meaningful extension – a product that performs perfectly, yet is flexible enough to respond to upcoming skin trends.
MARINA: That was the moment we knew: Now it's here. Now everything's just right. And on a personal note: I took an early sample with me on my vacation to Australia, long before the official tests – and I was surprised myself by how well it worked. It's those small, quiet confirmations that change everything.
How long did the development take?
MARINA: A total of about 1.5 years. We were in close contact with the lab and worked intensively on all three shades, constantly fine-tuning them. I don't remember exactly how many prototypes there were, but each one was a step closer to the goal.
WHAT WAS DECISIVE IN THE END?
MARINA: As is so often the case: the right balance. The perfect balance of minerals, pigments, and nourishing components. It wasn't a single moment—it was many small decisions that, when added together, make up the result.
How do you actually test whether a natural SPF 50+ provides reliable protection?
MARINA: First, there are internal preliminary tests in the laboratory. For the official certification, independent laboratories that specialize in precisely this type of SPF testing are required. This is about clarity, verifiability—and ultimately, safety.
What helped you as a team through the difficult times?
MARINA: The exchange. Over time, Christina and I developed a good sense of each other—of when each needed which perspective. There were many setbacks. But usually, one of us was optimistic enough to support the other. That's how a true partnership develops.
CLOUDS IN THREE WORDS?
Lightweight. Protective. Beautiful.
What are you most proud of today?
MARINA: That it feels right . That they've truly succeeded in reconciling all these requirements: a truly high mineral sun protection of SPF 50+, all the challenges that come with certified natural cosmetics according to the COSMOS standard, and ultimately a texture that feels good, looks beautiful, and also nourishes.
But above all, we're proud of having persevered – despite setbacks, doubts, and all the little details that made the project so complex. WOLKEN represents what happens when you don't give up on a high ambition, but work towards it step by step – not just research and development – but also intuition, feeling, and vision.
WOLKEN is a quiet hero. There when you need him. And that's exactly what we wanted to create.
Watch the interview with Marina, Head of Product Development at UND GRETEL, again in video format here.
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